Retrofitting a house with high performance
windows and patio doors can produce significant energy savings and improved
comfort. However, when the right window is installed incorrectly or worse
yet, when wrong window or patio door is installed incorrectly, energy
savings will be few, structure and furnishings may be damaged, and the
occupants' safety may be jeopardized. The energy retrofitter needs to
understand more than U-factors and solar heat gain coefficients when
choosing and installing a window.
Meet Building Codes
Well before the patio doors and windows arrive at the site for
installation, planning and research should be done to choose a window or
patio door that fits the situation. Check the local building department's
requirements regarding egress, safety glass, and grade (structural
integrity) before obtaining estimates and bids.
Window and Door Egress
Installing retrofit windows and patio doors, especially when the existing
window and patio frames are left in place, can significantly reduce the size
of the clear opening by as much as 2 inches of height and 3 inches of width.
This may prevent emergency egress. That is, occupants may not be able to get
out, and rescuers may not be able to get in, if there's a fire.
Most model building codes specify egress requirements for sleeping rooms
in the first three stories. They require at least one operable window or
exterior door, approved for emergency escape or rescue, to open directly
onto a public street, alley, yard, or court. If the emergency escape is a
window, it must be operable from the inside without the use of tools. It
must provide a minimum clear opening with a minimum width of 20 inches and
height of 24 inches and the finished sill may be no more than 44 inches
above the floor. Patio door glass must be tempered and if a window is less
than 18 inches above the floor, its glass must be tempered.
Safety Glass
Safety glass crumbles into relatively safe little chunks resembling
hailstones. Most codes require safety glass (almost always tempered glass)
to be installed where a window may be subject to human impact. This includes
all entrance doors; windows adjacent to a door when the glass is within a
24-inch arc of the closed door (increased from 12 inches in 1994) and the
bottom of the window is less than 60 inches above the walking surface; and
windows larger than 9 sq.ft. when the bottom is less than 18 inches above
the floor, the top is more than 36 inches above the floor, and a walking
surface is within 36 inches horizontally of the window.
Consider cost and timing well in advance, because tempered glass costs
more and usually requires more lead time at the manufacturer, especially for
custom-sized units. High-performance windows with spectrally selective
coatings require even longer lead times.
Grade
Even a well-installed window with the best thermal characteristics can
leak during a gusty rainstorm if the window is not the proper grade. Grade
refers to the structural capability of the window, or its capacity to resist
wind loads and to seal against air and water penetration (see "How to Select
the Correct Grade of Window"). When the wrong grade of window is installed,
the combination of wind pressure and driving rain can force water through
the seals between the operable sash, the frame, and through weep holes.
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